Hummingbirds consume an average of two to three times their weight in nectar each day. Providing feeders and an abundance of flowers throughout the season will support the hummingbirds and help attract them to your gardens. Keep this in mind as you add plants to your landscape.

Shrubs like azalea, lilac, weigela, buttonbush, and Rose-of-Sharon provide shelter for birds and nectar-filled flowers for hummingbirds and other pollinators to enjoy. The North American native honeysuckle vine adds vertical interest and hummingbird appeal even in small spaces.  Major Wheeler is a variant of the native honeysuckle vine that blooms all summer and is more resistant to powdery mildew.  Watch as the hummingbirds munch on any aphids that attack this plant.  They are great pest managers to have in the garden.

Another native vine, the trumpet vine, is a vigorous grower that can be trained into a small tree or onto a trellis.  This plant will send out suckers requiring some regular maintenance. Be patient as it can take several years for this vine to begin flowering. Avoid overfertilization which results in an even bigger plant and no flowers.

Garden phlox and bee balm are both hummingbird favorites that add color and nectar to the summer garden. Look for powdery mildew-resistant varieties or plant them among other tall plants to hide any discolored foliage that may occur. North American native anise hyssop and liatris are two more favorites you may want to include.

Fill vacant spots in the garden, containers, or hanging baskets with annuals known to attract hummingbirds. Fuchsias, begonias, and impatiens are perfect for shady locations.  Cupheas are often sold under the common names, tiny mice and cigar plant, and prefer a sunnier location. The taller blue horizon ageratum, geranium, bidens, tall verbena, and petunias grow well in gardens and containers.

Both perennial and annual salvias attract hummingbirds.  Place a pot or two of Black and Blue, Black and Bloom, and Wendy’s Wish near your windows, so you can enjoy the frequent visits of your resident hummingbirds.

Add one or more feeders to your landscape. Provide space between the feeders as hummingbirds are territorial. Make sure there is cover within 10 to 15 feet. Fill the container with a 1-part sugar to 4-part water solution. Replace the mixture and clean the feeders every few days. This provides additional food for

It may take a couple of years for the hummingbirds to find your nectar-filled garden. In the meantime, you will enjoy the flowers and other pollinators that stop by to dine.

Water plants thoroughly to promote deep drought-tolerant roots that help boost the plants’ pest resistance.  Wait until the top few inches of soil are crumbly and moist before watering most plants. Newly planted perennials, trees, and shrubs need more attention and water than drought-tolerant plants or established ones with more robust root systems that are better able to absorb more moisture. During extended dry periods, even drought-tolerant and established plants may need supplemental water.

Water early in the day to reduce water lost to evaporation. Avoid late evening watering that leaves foliage wet at night, increasing the risk of disease.

Apply water directly to the soil above the plant roots using soaker hoses or drip irrigation whenever possible. Water is applied where needed and the slow, steady flow of water is better able to infiltrate the soil and moisten the roots with less runoff.

Check soil moisture daily in container gardens and several times a week for raised beds. Both dry out more quickly than in-ground gardens and need to be watered more often. Save time and water by incorporating Wild Valley Farms’ wool pellets into the growing mixes. This sustainable product is made from wool waste. University research found it reduced watering by up to 25% and increased air space in the soil, promoting healthy plant growth.

Further conserve water by spreading a two- to three-inch layer of shredded leaves, evergreen needles, or shredded bark mulch over the soil in garden beds and around trees and shrubs. Mulching conserves moisture, keeps roots cooler and moist, and suppresses weeds. As the organic mulch decomposes, it adds nutrients and organic matter to the soil.  Just pull the mulch away from tree trunks, shrub stems, and the crowns of other plants to avoid rot.

Include plants that are more tolerant of the weather conditions in your area. Those that tolerate both heat and cold extremes will thrive with less care once established.

Incorporate organic matter like compost into the soil. It helps the soil accept and retain water so you will need to water less often. It also adds nutrients to the soil so over time you will need to fertilize less often.

Use a low-nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer if your garden plants need a nutrient boost. These types of fertilizers release small amounts of nutrients over an extended period. The low level of nitrogen reduces the risk of damaging heat-stressed plants.

Remove weeds from garden beds and borders as soon as they appear.  These “plants out of place” steal water and nutrients from your desirable garden plants. Plus, many harbor insects and diseases that are harmful to your garden plants.

Provide stressed plants with a bit of shade from the hot afternoon sun. Container gardens can be moved to a more suitable spot during heat waves. Add a bit of temporary shade to garden plants that are struggling to survive in the blazing hot sun. A strategically placed chair, lattice, or umbrella may be all that is needed. As temperatures drop, you can move plants back in place and remove the temporary shade.

Your garden will greatly benefit from these changes to your summer garden care.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Wild Valley Farms for her expertise to write this article. Myers’ website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

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Once divided into two different groups, dipladenias and mandevillas, the botanists now consider them all mandevillas. You will find both names still in use, with dipladenias referring to those with a more mounded, shrub-like shape and mandevillas being more of a trailing vine. Whatever you call them you are sure to find one or more that complement your garden and container designs.

Mandevillas are grown as annuals in all but zones 10a to 11b where some varieties are hardy. They flower best in full sun but will tolerate some shade.  These South American native plants thrive in the hot humid weather of summer. Wait for spring temperatures to remain in the 60s before planting them outdoors.

Select a potting mix or location with organically rich, well-drained soil. Use a slow-release fertilizer at the start of the season and make a second application, if needed mid-season. Read and follow the label directions when using fast-release liquid fertilizers.

Mandevillas are usually flowering when you purchase them at the garden center.  They will continue to bloom on new growth throughout the summer and fall until frost kills the plant.

The well-behaved vining mandevilla will not strangle nearby plants. Just give it a trellis or obelisk for the vines to wrap around and climb. Their slightly woody stems provide greater stability than other vines that regularly need to be secured to the support.  Just tuck any new tendrils through the trellis, pointing them in the desired direction as needed.

Use vining varieties in a container of their own or as a vertical accent on a trellis in mixed containers or flowerbeds. Set pots by an entrance to your home or garden for a colorful welcome or use them to dress up a bare wall or fence.

The more compact shrubby types can be planted with other annual flowers in the garden, grown in hanging baskets, or used as a filler in mixed container gardens. Just prune off or tuck any wayward branches behind neighboring plants.

Disease-resistant Sun Parasol® mandevillas offer an array of colors including white, yellow, apricot, pink, crimson, and even red and white striped flowers. The original shrubby Sun Parasol® mandevillas are available in the widest range of colors while the garden group makes excellent hanging baskets. Grow the vigorous climbing Giant group varieties for the largest flowers and the Pretty group when looking for a vine with the most flowers, dense vigorous growth, and more cold tolerance.

Include them on your patio, deck, or balcony, and situate a few outside your windows. You will enjoy the flowers and winged visitors whether inside looking out or relaxing in your outdoor spaces.

Growing a beautiful garden despite the deer is possible but takes planning, persistence, and flexibility. You must be willing to change strategies as needed to minimize deer damage.

Deer dining patterns can vary from one part of your neighborhood to another and from year to year. You have probably reviewed deer-resistant plant lists only to find a few of the plants frequently damaged in your yard included on the list.

No plant is immune from hungry deer, but some are a bit less palatable than others.

Look for plants with these characteristics next time you go plant shopping.  Include plants with fuzzy or hairy leaves, those with prickly or thorny stems, thick and leathery leaves, and strong fragrances that deer tend to avoid.  Even though this is not one hundred percent, plant selection should be part of your strategy for reducing the risk of damage. Make note of the plants selected and how the deer responded. It will help as you make future additions to the garden.

There are toxic plants that deer avoid, including daffodils, ferns, false blue indigo, poppies, euphorbias, and bleeding hearts to name a few. Some of these are also toxic to people and pets so do your research before adding them to the landscape.

Some gardeners find combining the less favored plants with those the deer love helps discourage feeding. Planting strongly scented lavender next to roses or surrounding a garden of deer favorites with thyme can help discourage deer browsing. Diversifying plantings is also a good strategy for reducing the risk of insects and diseases infecting and destroying gardens filled with just one type of plant.

Look for pathways frequented or used to enter your landscape. Find ways to disrupt their regular routes to keep them moving along past your landscape. A trellis or a few posts covered with vines may be enough to limit access. Points of access are great places to apply repellents like organic Plantskydd (plantskydd.com). The deer take a whiff and move along before taking a bite out of any plants. The same holds true for those key plants favored by deer. It’s rain and snow resistant so you don’t need to apply it as often as other repellent products.

Plant a deer-deterring hedge. Some gardeners use deer favorites, allowing the deer to munch on these plants as they continue past your yard. Other gardeners fill the hedge with prickly, smelly, and less desirable plants. Deer will take a bite and move along. Plant these close together to discourage deer from pushing through in search of better-tasting plants.

Design round or square beds with more space in the middle and less perimeter. Long narrow beds allow easy access to all the plants in the garden.
 

Keep in mind deer are focused on finding food while you have other priorities to consider. You need to be vigilant and persistent, adapting as the deer’s eating habits change to be successful. Your efforts will be rewarded as you grow an attractive garden without the help of a fence.

Photo credit: Melinda Myers

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including The Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally-syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Tree World Plant Care for her expertise to write this article. Her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

The gel inside the leaves is the medicinal part of the plant. Just cut away the outer part of the leaf and use just the gel on the problem areas. Make sure to remove the latex plant sap located between the outer layer (skin) of the leaf and the gel that can cause skin irritation. It is always best to test a small area of your skin first.

You may have read about Aloe vera being used in beverages and desserts. Properly prepare the aloe before consuming. Make sure to remove the latex and use only the gel to avoid cramps, diarrhea, and stomach upset.  Keep Aloe vera plants out of the reach of children, cats, and dogs.

Plant Aloe vera in a container with drainage holes. Consider using a clay pot that allows the soil to thoroughly dry between watering and prevent larger often top-heavy plants from tipping over.  Use a pot as wide as it is deep whenever possible to accommodate the spreading nature of this plant.

Cover the drainage hole with a coffee filter or piece of paper towel. This prevents the potting mix from leaking out the drainage holes after planting. Use a well-drained cacti and succulent potting mix.

Grow this plant in a sunny window along with your other cacti and succulents. South and unobstructed east or west-facing windows are usually the best. Set it under artificial lights if a brightly lit location is not available.

Water thoroughly whenever the top third of the soil is dry. Avoid applying water over the center of the plant where it can collect between the leaves and lead to rot. Pour off excess water that collects in the saucer.

Prevent early death of your plant by avoiding waterlogged soil. Watering too often or allowing the pot to sit in excess water can lead to root rot and the death of the plant. You will need to water less often in winter when days are shorter, light intensity is lower and plant growth is limited.

Keep plants away from cold drafts and temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit that can damage the plants. Northern gardeners may need to move the plants back a bit from the window in winter as outside temperatures drop.

Clean leaves occasionally with a damp rag. This removes any dust that may collect on the leaves and helps reduce the risk of insect pests such as mealy bugs and aphids.  These plants are sensitive to many chemicals so check the label and test a leaf before treating the whole plant if additional treatment is needed.

Watch for small plants to form at the base of the original plant. You can use these offsets, often called plantlets or pups, to start new plants to grow or share with others. Use a sharp knife to separate the small plants, roots and all, from the parent plant. Repot the offsets in small containers just an inch or two larger than the remaining root system.

Enjoy the beauty and medicinal benefits of this easy-care plant. Then consider gifting a few to your favorite gardeners and cooks.

Photo credit: Melindamyers.com

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

Canning jars, freezer containers, spice cubes and airtight bottles for canning, freezing, and storing dehydrated herbs and vegetables are always welcome gifts.These supplies come in handy throughout the harvest season and are often in short supply when food preservation is at its peak.

Most gardeners grow their own fresh herbs and drying is the easiest way to preserve the harvest. Simply gather stems, secure with a rubber band, and suspend in a warm, dry location. As the stems dry and shrink, the rubber band does as well, keeping the stems secure. Use a spring clothespin to secure the herb bundles to wires or other support. Create your own drying set up or invest in one of the commercial herb drying racks.

If space is limited, your gift recipient will appreciate a system like the Stack-it Herb Drying Rack (gardeners.com) that allows them to dry lots of herbs in a very small footprint. The drying system you purchase or create should provide the needed space for the harvest and allow sufficient air circulation for fast drying.

Herbs with high moisture content like basil, oregano, lemon balm and mints will mold if not dried quickly. If this has been a problem in the past, try placing a small bunch in a paper bag with holes in the side and stems outside the bag. Hang these from a drying rack or speed up the process by using a microwave or food dehydrator.

Many gardeners grow onions, garlic, and potatoes for long-term storage. All three of these vegetables prefer cool, dark storage locations with good air circulation. Separate potatoes from onions that give off pungent gases that can taint the potatoes’ flavor.

Avoid plastic bags that retain moisture and can shorten these vegetables storage life. Breathable potato and onion storage baskets have been used by gardeners for centuries. Boost the style and space savings with the Stackable Bamboo Harvest Storage Basket with Lid. Just stack as needed and place on the rolling base for easy storage and accessibility.

Help your gift recipient turn their harvest into something delicious. Fermentation is a relatively easy preservation technique that has been used for thousands of years. Preserve some of your cucumbers as pickles, cabbage as sauerkraut, and berries as preserves with fermentation.

For most projects you just need the fruit or vegetables, water, salt, and spices. The desired ingredients are placed in a covered vessel like a Stoneware Pickling Crock. Weights are used to keep the fruit and vegetables submerged in water throughout the fermentation process.

Consider smaller fermentation kits for those with limited space. A three-liter glass jar with an air-lock lid and ceramic weights will allow you to ferment small quantities of vegetables.

Reduce the workload and boost the enjoyment for those making tomato juice, sauces, and soups. Hand crank and electric tomato presses, strainers and sauce makers allow gardeners to separate the skins and seeds from the tomato meat for quicker and easier processing.

Giving a gift that helps preserve flavors from the recipient’s garden will be useful and remembered for seasons to come.

Photo credit:

gardeners.com

Melinda Myers is the author of more than 20 gardening books, including Small Space Gardening and Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” DVD series and the Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Gardener’s Supply for her expertise to write this article. Her web site is www.MelindaMyers.com.

The seed heads of many perennials like coneflower, rudbeckias, liatris and bee balm attract seed-eating songbirds like finches, sparrow, chickadees, juncos, and jays to the winter garden. These winged visitors add motion and color to the winter garden. Best of all, you don’t need to refill and clean this natural food source.

Many of these plants provide homes for beneficial insects, including native bees and other pollinators. A variety of these insects overwinter in or near the stems of perennials.

Native plants have evolved with many of these insects, birds and wildlife and most provide homes and food for native insects, songbirds, and wildlife. Purple coneflower, liatris, rudbeckias, sunflowers, asters, goldenrod, yucca, and Joe Pye weed are just a few of these native plants you might be growing.

Enjoy the winter foliage of evergreen and semi-evergreen perennials by leaving them intact in the garden. Watch for and avoid disturbing the green leaves at the base of perennials like yarrow, Shasta daisy, and globe thistle.

Leave borderline hardy perennials intact to improve their chances of surviving a harsher-than-normal winter. The stems capture any snow and helps retain any additional winter mulch, both providing needed root insulation.

Remove any diseased or insect-pest-infested plants. Removing this from the garden in fall reduces the risk of these problems occurring next year. Discard do not compost this material as most compost piles do not heat up to high enough temperatures to kill them. Contact your local municipality for disposal options.

Remove hosta leaves once the fall color fades and leaves die to reduce the risk of leaf nematodes overwintering in the crown of the plants. It also eliminates a winter home for slugs and their eggs.

Wait for several hard frosts when cutting back perennials in the fall. In milder climates, wait for leaves to brown and dry completely. This ensures the plant has stored all the energy it produced in the roots for healthy growth next spring.

Use sharp bypass pruners to make a clean cut through the stem.  Disinfect tools by dipping in rubbing alcohol or spraying with a disinfect spray to prevent the spread of disease.

Rake leaves into the garden over the soil surface around the plants instead of to the curb. Fall leaves make great mulch that moderates soil temperature, suppresses weeds, conserves moisture, and improves the soil as they break down. Plus, they are free.

Wait to finish removing perennials until spring temperatures regularly hover in the 50’s. This allows overwintering insects a chance to leave their winter homes. It also provides songbirds much needed food in spring before many of our plants begin producing seeds and berries.

Once the garden is set for winter, you can relax and make plans for the spring garden.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

Brighten your indoor décor, patio, deck, or balcony by forcing a few spring flowering bulbs into bloom.  Just plant, give them a chill and enjoy a few extra daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, crocus and grape hyacinths this winter and spring.

All you need is a suitable container, some well-drained potting mix, the bulbs and a place to give the bulbs the chill necessary to force them to bloom. Select a container with drainage holes that is deep enough to accommodate the largest bulbs. Cover the bottom few inches of the container with a well-drained potting mix.  Place larger and taller bulbs like tulips, daffodils and hyacinths in the center surrounded by shorter varieties.  They can be planted close together, about one half the bulb width apart with the neck of larger bulbs at or just below the soil surface. Set tulips with the flat side of the bulb facing the pot for a better display.

If you are using a deep container, plant layers of bulbs for a more robust and longer-lasting display. Set the largest bulbs on the potting mix near the bottom of the container. Cover these bulbs with soil and add the smaller bulbs like grape hyacinths and crocus on the next level.  Plant these bulbs close to each other, covering the surface, for greater impact. Cover this layer with at least an inch of soil. Water thoroughly so the excess water drains out the bottom of the pot.

Move the bulb-filled container to a cool location where temperatures remain above freezing and between 35 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit for 12 to 15 weeks. A spare refrigerator works well for this. Just avoid storing the bulbs in a refrigerator with fruit like apples and pears that emit ethylene gas that can negatively impact flowering.  If refrigerator space is limited, you can store the unplanted bulbs in a paper bag, so they take up less space in the fridge for the needed chill before planting.

Those gardening in colder climates can also store the pots in an unheated garage.  Just water the containers whenever the soil is thawed and dry.  Or sink the container into a vacant garden space in your landscape.  Mulch the soil once the ground starts to freeze with evergreen boughs. The winter mulch makes retrieving the container easier in winter or spring. 

Once the 12- to 15-week cold period is complete, you can begin moving the pots indoors. Remove a few pots every week to extend the bloom time and your enjoyment. Place the pot in a cool bright location to encourage more compact growth. Water thoroughly when the top few inches of soil begin to dry. Soon the leaves will begin to sprout and flowers will appear in about four weeks.

Provide ongoing care if you plan on moving the bulbs into the garden. Remove the faded flowers and place the leafy plants in a sunny window and water thoroughly whenever the top inch of soil is dry. Fertilize with a dilute solution of any flowering houseplant fertilizer.

When the danger of frost has passed, you can move these plants into the garden if they are suited to your growing conditions.  These plants may not bloom the following spring but usually do the next year and for several beyond.

Or you can toss the forced bulbs into the compost pile so they can return to your garden as wonderful compost.

Investing time forcing a few spring flowering bulbs into bloom is sure to boost your spirits this winter.  Consider planting a few extra pots of bulbs to do the same for friends and family.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and her website is www.MelindaMyers.com.

Give plants with long, leggy stems a pinch. Removing a small or large portion of the growing tip encourages the plant to form more branches and compact growth. Pinching removes a growth hormone produced in the stem tip called auxin. This hormone encourages upward growth of the stem. Removing the stem tip reduces the auxin and allows more branches to develop along the stem.

A soft pinch removes just the uppermost portion of the stem with developing leaves and the stem tip.  A hard pinch, more like pruning, removes the tip and several inches of the leafy stem. These stem pieces can be used to start new plants.

Some gardeners pinch with their fingers, but I prefer using sharp snips like Corona Tools ComfortGEL® micro snips with stainless steel blades that resist the buildup of plant residue or Corona bypass pruners that make a clean cut that closes quickly and looks better.

When pinching and pruning your houseplants make the cuts just above a set of leaves. The plant remains relatively attractive while you wait for new leaves and stems to grow.  Avoid leaving stubs by making cuts elsewhere as these detract from the plant’s appearance and can create entryways for insects and disease.

Houseplants can be propagated in several different ways. Avoid propagating patented plants protected by patent laws. These laws are designed to protect the investment of the plant breeder. Respecting patent laws allows companies to continue breeding improvements into plants for all of us to enjoy in the future.

Use leaf stem cuttings to start a variety of houseplants like inch plants, philodendron, pothos, dieffenbachias, dracaenas, jade plants and many more. Use a sharp knife, snips or bypass pruner to cut three- to six-inch-long pieces from firm, mature, non-woody stems. Remove the lowest leaf or two that will be buried in the potting mix. This is where new roots will form. If you have had trouble rooting cuttings in the past, try using rooting hormone labeled for use on houseplants. It contains fungicides to fight disease and hormones to encourage root development.

Root cuttings in a small container filled with vermiculate or a well-drained potting mix. Make a hole in the mix, insert the cut end, and gently push the potting mix around the stem. Loosely cover the potted cutting with a plastic bag left open at the top. This increases the humidity around the cutting to compensate for the lack of roots.  Set the container in a bright location out of direct sun for several weeks as roots develop. Give the stem a gentle tug to see if roots have formed. Move the rooted cutting into a container filled with well-drained potting mix, place it in a location with the proper amount of sunlight and water as needed.

You’ll be amazed at how a bit of grooming and propagating can perk up a tired indoor garden.  Share or trade extra rooted cuttings with family and friends so each of you can grow your indoor garden and memories.

For more ways to start new plants and answers to your indoor gardening questions, join Melinda for her webinar on November 2 at 6:30 p.m. CT. The webinar is free, but registration is required. Register at https://bit.ly/3vDVRr5 or www.MelindaMyers.com.

Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” instant video series and the nationally-syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Corona Tools for her expertise to write this article. Myers’ web site is www.MelindaMyers.com.

Most people have seen pictures of the giant allium but there are many other options of flower sizes and heights suitable for any size and style garden. Most allium flowers are globe shaped and all are made of tiny florets. They make great cut flowers, the pollinators love them, and deer tend to leave them be.Plan for months of color by including a variety of alliums that bloom from late spring through early summer. Longfield Gardens’ Planning Guide for Alliums (Longfield-gardens.com) showcases the various alliums, their size and bloom time to help you plan. Add alliums to the zone four to eight garden in fall when planting your other spring flowering bulbs like tulips and daffodils.Dress up the front of a flowerbed or rock garden with Allium karataviense. It may be small in stature at only eight to ten inches tall, but the broad grey-green leaves and five-inch round, silvery-pink flowers provide big impact in the late spring garden.Add years of spring beauty with Purple Sensation. Its shimmering four-inch diameter, violet-purple flowers are held above the leaves on 24 to 30” tall stems. It provides nice height and vibrant color to the early season garden. You will enjoy these alliums and their offspring for years to come.For something uniquely different add Allium bulgaricum, also known as Nectaroscordum bulgaricum, to perennial and informal gardens. The cluster of drooping cream and burgundy bell-shaped flowers are followed by seedpods that lift themselves skyward. This provides an interesting vertical accent in the garden.Gladiator and Globemaster are sure to have passersby and visitors stopping to take a second look at your garden. Mix them in amongst perennials and add to mixed borders. Gladiator has blue-violet, six-inch diameter flowers that are smaller than Globemaster but Gladiator blooms earlier and stands a foot taller and the leaves are long lasting. Both are sure to grab your attention and that of pollinators.Stretch your enjoyment into early summer with Ambassador. Its dense five- to six-inch, violet-blue flowers are a deeper color than most alliums. What’s even more impressive is these large flowers are atop four- to five-foot stems. Like the other alliums, bees and butterflies love it.It’s no surprise that Allium christophii is a favorite among gardeners. The eight- to ten-inch diameter, violet-pink flowers have spikey florets and a silvery sheen that makes them look like globes in the garden. Though this allium is only 12-18” tall, it has a big presence in the garden and is very long-lasting.Allium schubertii produces even larger, 12” diameter flowers on stems of a similar height. Some of the star-like florets are closer to the center of the flower than others and this makes the blossom appear to be expanding, like fireworks in the garden. Save some of the seedheads and use them in dried flower arrangements.The flowers of heirloom Allium atropurpureum are dome-shaped rather than round. Their dramatic, dark burgundy color and upright stature add structure to the garden. They are also long-lasting cut flowers.End the season with Drumstick allium. The egg-shaped flowers are raspberry on top and green on the bottom with long slender stems. They are perfect grow-through plants and good companions for ornamental grasses. Add a variety of alliums to your garden this fall and enjoy the added color, texture, and height this group of plants provide. You and the pollinators will be glad you did.Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2^nd Edition and Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” DVD instant video series and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by Longfield Gardens for her expertise to write this article. Her web site is www.MelindaMyers.com.